Replace Water Pump

Toyota RAV4 Limited V6 2007: Replace Water Pump


This project took me about 10 hours but I could do it again in 4-5 hours now that I know the procedure. Also, having a buddy to help would have made it go a lot faster. There are a few difficult moments mainly because I was doing it on my own and because I am an idiot. But this is totally within the range of a DIY job. I replaced the fan/generator V belt since it was easy while everything was apart. I should have also replaced the thermostat as well since it’s right there, but I didn’t think about that until after I put everything back together.

Tools and Parts

  • Drain Pan
  • Funnel
  • Drop Cloth
  • 2′ – 3′ of tubing, ~1/2″ diameter
  • 13mm Double Ended Box Wrench
  • 10mm 3/8″ Socket
  • 13mm 3/8″ Socket
  • 10mm 3/8″ Socket
  • 3/8″ Socket Wrench
  • 1/8″ Socket Wrench
  • 6″ Extension for 3/8″ Socket Wrench
  • 12″ Extension for 3/8″ Socket Wrench
  • 3/8″ Breaker Bar
  • Torque Wrench
  • Coolant
  • V Belt
  • Water Pump, metal gasket, 2 rubber gaskets
  • Thermostat
  • Thread Lock
  • Hose Clamps
  • More stuff to add


Review the General Automotive Tips first.

Note:  this is still a work in progress, I need to add pictures and other details.  This was basically a brain dump from when I replaced my water pump.


  • Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn on front passenger wheel
  • Jack up vehicle
  • Remove front passenger wheel
  • Remove plastic #1 engine under cover from underneath vehicle (see reference diagrams)
  • Remove rear passenger under cover from passenger wheel well (see reference diagrams)
  • Remove V Bank plastic cover over engine (see reference diagrams)
  • Place drop cloth under vehicle and position drain pan under radiator
  • Connect plastic or vinyl tubing to radiator drain cock plug under radiator on the driver side. I used 1/2″ tubing that was originally intended for my lawn tractor but fit snugly on the radiator drain. Run the tubing into the drain pan
  • Open coolant reservoir cap
  • Open radiator drain cock. Keep an eye on the drain pan and empty as needed
  • The repair guide indicates that the two cylinder block drain cock plugs should also be opened.  I never found them, so I skipped this step. This resulted in a few quarts of coolant dumping onto my floor later on
  • The repair guide indicates that the front suspension member reinforcement on passenger side (RH) should be removed. I skipped this step. Some bolts may have been easier to access but it didn’t cause any major issues for me. Also, someone else noted that the pump could have probably been removed from the bottom of the vehicle had this member been removed.  Here is a picture of the  front suspension member reinforcement
    Front Suspension Member Reinforcement RH IMG_7911
  • The repair guide indicates that the crankshaft pulley should be removed. I skipped this step. Some bolts may have been easier to access but it didn’t cause any major issues for me.  Pictures of the crankshaft pulley
    Crankshaft Pulley IMG_7891 Crankshaft Pulley and Tensioner IMG_7892Crankshaft Pulley and Tensioner IMG_7893
  • Remove radiator reservoir tank (2 bolts) and disconnect hoses (TODO Pictures)
  • Support the engine from below with a jack and jack stand. Be sure to put some wood in between the jack and the engine. The jack only needs to push up on the engine so the engine is raised about an inch or less. The goal is to make sure the weight of the engine on the passenger side is supported by the jack and not the engine mount. I choose to support from two locations. I pushed up from the oil pan but this is a bad idea in general. Pictures of my ridiculous pile of wood on the jack (certainly not the most stable or safest method)
    Engine Supported From Below IMG_7910 Engine Supported By Jack IMG_7908 Engine Supported By Jack Stand IMG_7909
  • Remove 1 bolt on black #1 engine mounting stay, 2 bolts on silver #2 engine mounting stay, and 2 nuts covering both stays
    #1 and #2 Engine Mounting Stay RH Installed IMG_7992 #1 and #2 Engine Mounting Stay RH Installed IMG_7991
  • Remove bolt for AC hose support and shift AC hoses out of the way
    AC Lines and Bracket IMG_7888
  • Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (one on top, one underneath) that connect the engine mounting insulator to the front #1 engine mounting bracket
    Engine Mounting Insulator Installed IMG_7978 Engine Mounting Insulator Installed IMG_7977 Engine Mounting Insulator Installed IMG_7976 Engine Mounting Insulator Installed IMG_7974
  • Remove 3 bolts on engine insulator mount
    Engine Mounting Insulator Installed IMG_7971 Engine Mounting Insulator Installed IMG_7972 Engine Mounting Insulator Installed IMG_7973
  • Manhandle engine insulator mount out, push around AC lines. It’s a pain but keep working and it will come out. Curse frequently
  • Remove 2 bolts for engine insulator mount base
    Engine Mounting Insulator Bracket Base Installed IMG_7970
  • Remove 6 bolts for front #1 engine mounting bracket (one bolt won’t completely come out until the whole mount is removed)
    Front #1 Engine Mounting Bracket Installed IMG_7964 Front #1 Engine Mounting Bracket Installed IMG_7961 Front #1 Engine Mounting Bracket Installed IMG_7959
  • Remove 2 bolts and one nut for water inlet housing
    Water Inlet Housing IMG_7958
  • Disconnect rear hose and shove all the crap up toward the front of the vehicle
    Water Inlet Housing Moved Away IMG_7889 Water Inlet Housing Moved Away IMG_7896 Water Inlet Housing Moved Away IMG_7897
  • Rotate tensioner pulley counter-clockwise to loosen belt. There is a SST for this task but I made my own.  I used a 14mm double end box wrench along with a 3″ socket extension. Put the 14mm side of the wrench on the pulley bolt, put the extension through the other end of the wrench. Now I have a nice grip to get some leverage. Here are some pictures from above, but the same process can be used below
    Setup For Tensioner Pully IMG_7942 Setup For Tensioner Pully IMG_7943
  • Lock tensioner in place with 5mm hex wrench. I learned the hard way that this locking process is only to be used to remove the belt. It will not support any significant amount of force (like later on when I tried to remove the pulley). The picture shows my busted tensioner and where things should line up normally
    Tensioner Pully Locking Hole (Broken) IMG_7948 Tensioner Pully Locking Hole (Broken) IMG_7946
  • Remove the old belt
  • Release tension on pulley and let it come to rest
  • Remove #2 idler pulley
    V Belt and Pulleys IMG_7952
  • Remove tensioner pulley.  Learned the hard way that this is reverse threaded! Loosen it by going clockwise. As I said before, I didn’t realize I should have removed the hex key locking it in place. I torqued hard and broke the hole on the tensioner. Later on I just used a block of wood to keep tension off the pulley, but it would have been a lot easier if I didn’t break this part
  • Remove water pump pulley (4 bolts, easier if you have SST or friend but can be done by yourself). Easier to reach from the top, but can be gotten from the bottom as well. Leave pulley in place once bolts removed, it will just flop around but won’t fall.  It gets in the way a bit when removing the bolts on the water pump, but it’s manageable.
  • Remove 16 bolts on the water pump and be sure to pay attention to locations of where they were removed. As the pump loosens, coolant will probably dump out all over the floor. Be prepared
    Water Pump Bolt Diagram Water Pump Bolts IMG_7916 Water Pump Bolts IMG_7917Crankshaft Pulley and Tensioner IMG_7892
  • Here are some pictures of various components after they were removed
  • Radiator reservoir tank
    Radiator Reservoir Tank IMG_7935
  • #2 engine mounting stay
    #2 Engine Mounting Stay RH Removed IMG_7939
  • Engine mounting insulator
    Engine Mounting Insulator Removed IMG_7919Engine Mounting Insulator Removed IMG_7920
  • Engine mounting insulator base
    Engine Mounting Insulator Bracket Base Removed IMG_7921
  • Front #1 engine mounting bracket (first pictures shows stay attached)
    Front #1 Engine Mounting Bracket With #2 Engine Mounting Stay RH IMG_7940 Front #1 Engine Mounting Bracket Removed IMG_7932 Front #1 Engine Mounting Bracket Removed IMG_7931 Front #1 Engine Mounting Bracket IMG X
  • #2 idler pulley
    Idler Pulley IMG_7922
    Idler Pulley IMG_7923
  • Tensioner pulley
    Tensioner Pulley IMG_7879
    Tensioner Pulley IMG_7936
  • Old water pump showing leakage
    Old Pump Showing Leakage IMG_7881 Old Pump Showing Leakage IMG_7883 Old Pump Showing Leakage IMG_7884 Old Pump Showing Leakage IMG_7929


  • Clean off surfaces
  • Install new pump and gasket (save two o rings for a bit later)
  • Two C-bolts should use lock tite
  • Install water pump pulley (again, use a friend or sst)
  • Install tension pulley (reverse threaded)
  • Install idler pulley
  • Rotate tensioner pulley counter clockwise
  • Lock tensioner in place with 5mm hex wrench
  • Install belt
  • Install new orings
  • Install water inlet housing
  • Connect water hose
  • Engine brackets
  • etc
  • Install reservoir tank (2 bolts) and connect hose
  • Close lower drain plug
  • Add coolant 9.3 liters (9.8 US qts) ONly got 1.25 gallons in there while cool.
  • Squeeze radiator hoses several times and check coolant level
  • Install Cap


  • Start car, get up to temp, make sure fans kick on for a few minutes
  • Set Heater to max temp, A/C off
  • Shut down car, let cool, fill again.
  • Squeeze radiator hoses several times and check coolant level
  • Repeat for the remainder of the week

References and Thanks

Component Diagrams

Components Diagram 10

Components Diagram 9

Components Diagram 8

Components Diagram 7

Components Diagram 6

Components Diagram 5

Components Diagram 4

Components Diagram 3

Components Diagram 2

Components Diagram 1

Components Diagram 11


There is a lot of great information that others have already posted. Thanks to all those at RAV4 World for their work documenting the process

Notes from RAV4 World

These paths are for my own reference (formal maintenance docs).