Change Spark Plugs

Toyota RAV4 Limited V6 2007: Change Spark Plugs

Review the General Automotive Tips first.

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/83934-rear-spark-plugs-v6.html

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/87788-spark-plug-change-2007-v6-diy-not-too-complicated.html

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/78399-ignition-coil-rav4-2006-v6-limited-4×4-5.html#post895221

I’ve been kind of in the background for a long time just getting valuable information from this site, but decided to add something today, as I have just done the V6 spark plug change at 123,000 miles, and have not seen a specific thread on removal of those 3 hidden backside plugs yet, although, there has been much speculation. I was hesitant at first because of some ridiculous rumors that the engine had to be removed, or motor mounts lifted to do this. That was crazy stuff. After looking at the engine, and rubbing my chin, the good Lord gave me some wisdom, and I could see that it is much easier. All that needs to be removed is the black plastic air intake bolted over the intake manifold. I have some simple instructions for anyone who wants to save some money, and do it yourself. These only refer to the back plugs, as the front 3 are obvious. All 6 plugs took me about 3 hours time, but I was going slow, and discovering the best way to do this as I went along. Anyone else with the instructions should be able to accomplish this in 1.5 to 2 hours. I’ll try to load some photos too.
–First unscrew the clamp of the rubber air boot to the bright aluminum throttle body. Remove a couple of vacuum hoses from the plastic air filter cover, unlatch the air filter cover, and pull the cover, and rubber boot aside.
— Now remove the vacuum hoses from the black plastic air intake the will need to be removed from the intake manifold on the top of the engine. Leave the bright aluminum throttle body attached to the intake. Remove the wire connector on the side of the intake (passenger side). Use a hex head socket of the correct size ( I wouldn’t use an allen wrench) ,to remove the 4 hex head screws holding the black plastic intake to the intake manifold. There are 2 10mm nuts , one on each side , left, and right of the hex head screws. Remove those. Now the intake won’t lift yet. There are 2 mount bracket bolts that are easy to remove, but not easily seen on the backside of the black plastic intake. Both use a 12 mm wrench. One on the passenger side can be seen with a flashlight at the backside. Either the bolt on the top of the bracket or lower can be taken out. I chose the lower one that was easy to see, and reach. Now the one on the drivers side, and back of the intake can be found by running your hand over the smooth black plastic ring about an inch left of the bright aluminum throttle body. As you follow that ring over, and around the backside, your finger will touch that bracket bolt head. Your wrench can reach it easy by feel. That’s it. Pull the plastic air intake up. The base gasket is rubber, and re-useable.
–Now you can see there is plenty of room to reach the back 3 spark plugs. Use your 10mm socket to remove the coil/boot screw, and lift the boot out. The bottom half is rubber, and can turn to the side when the boot is pulled close to the firewall. I was able to pull all 3 boots without disconnecting any of the wire connectors. After loosening the spark plugs with the socket and extension, I used a magnet on a flexible handle to pull the plugs out of the hole. Be sure to use anti-seize on the new plug threads. The air intake, air filter cover, and rubber boot were all reinstalled in less than 15 minutes.
I hope this helps some who have wondered about the procedure. No fear. It was really quite easy.
I just changed my plugs at 100,00 miles. There seems to be a lot of questions about getting to the rear 3 plugs. I just pulled the intake out of the way and had good access to the rear plugs. There is a support bracket on the left and right rear of the intake, but one bolt out off of each and the intake slides right up and out of the way. The intake uses O-rings so I just put a dab of a special O-ring lube/treatment on the bottom as I went back together. I used two 3″ extensions to feed my socket down into get the spark plug, lowering the socket and first extension down into the hole then putting on the second extesion. A long magnet pulled the plug up out of the hole and then lowered the new plug back down. No problems, some may want to replace the intake O-rings, but mine were fine.
http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/87724-2008-rav4-v6-spark-plug.html
http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/83934-rear-spark-plugs-v6.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/122-2nd-generation-2008-2013/413790-2gr-fe-v6-spark-plug-replacement.html